ABUJA

I remember entering Abuja for the first time at night, all alone in a new city, heading to meet a family at the outskirts.

I remember thinking it had a presence I couldn’t fathom. A fortress and an intrigue. Like a refuge as well as a threat.

I loved that I could hear its silence, breathe in its personality and feel its aura. Peace, eerie calm, a propensity for violence.

Merciful and brutal.

I remember thinking how diverse God must be to make monstrous rocks. Some that even had waterfalls within them. To be surrounded by rocks that feel as old as time, with stories hidden between crevices and witnesses.

Abuja has its cacophony, distinct tunes depending on the area. The noise of Mararaba and the whisper of Maitama.

Abuja with the presence of its people. Everyone seems like a “big man” here with kaftans and “palm sandals”, dansiki and babriga.

Abuja, homeless big boys with cars flocking Gwarinpa searching for their next housing true love.

The silent whisper of connection to power. The idea of civility in a state where bombing could happen in the same breath as kidnapping by DSS officials in Apo roundabout or Barnex.

Abuja with Kubwa camp. A disorientation from comfort. Where civilians meet,  suspension of rights is merely disguised as para-military operations.

Abuja with yaji, masa and kunu. Yehusa suya and abokis that give extra pepper and onions because you speak a little Hausa. “Nagode”.

Abuja, with the misunderstanding of its people. Warm in relationship, loyal with passion, fanatic in belief. As kind as a knife.

Abuja and the street lights. The sound of the wind in your ears as you drive 4am to the airport road to catch a flight. The quiet silence full of presence.

The harmattan and heat. Lonely Christmas, jubilant Sallah…

Abuja, where lifelong friendship was formed. Memories and laughter. Love and exploration. First jobs and COVID.

Flooded rooms and kind neighbours. Windows and doors secure privacy and life partially. Drums for water but no water, heavy rains and thunderstorms, scorching heat with less humidity.

Abuja, land of opportunities, Federal capital.

Xoxo,

Dcconoisseur.